Eating Veg on a Galapagos Cruise with Ecoventura

When I got the chance to go on a cruise around the Galapagos, I figured I could survive on lettuce and bread crusts or whatever the ship had on hand, as long as it meant I’d get to see marine iguanas. I was surprised to learn that the Ecoventura line employs chefs professionally trained to cook for the likes of me.

The Letty, one of Ecoventura's ships, and my home for a week

The Letty, one of Ecoventura’s ships, and my home for a week

I spent a week on the Letty, a 20-passenger ship, in late January/early February. We visited many of the southern islands in the Galapagos. When we weren’t hovering over rare wildlife on the islands or admiring fabulous fish through our snorkel masks, the kitchen crew were plying us with snacks, treats and wonderful meals.

Here's one of my special soy meat entrees.

Here’s one of my special soy meat entrees.

For vegetarians, vegans, diabetics and gluten-free folks, the option of staying on a boat with a crew who understands your diet will make your trip exponentially easier, less stressful and more enjoyable than trying to fend for yourself on land.

As the week went on and the onslaught of beautifully prepared, cheerfully served snacks continued, I grew more and more curious about the people behind the food. Mostly I interacted with Jairo Rengifo, the bartender and dining room manager who served the food and protected me from non-veg dishes with his eagle eyes. Every morning when I showed up for breakfast, he’d call to the kitchen crew, “Teresita is here! Where are her vegan yucca cakes?”

Jairo Rengifo, who saved me from many a non-veg dish.

Jairo Rengifo, who saved me from many a non-veg dish.

On the final night of the cruise, I got to interview chef Xavier Mancayo and assistant chef Roberto Urgiles about life in the ship’s kitchen. Since a two year-old Ecuadorian child has a better vocabulary and speaks more complete Spanish sentences than I do, our excellent naturalist Orlando Romero translated for us.

Assistant chef Roberto Urgiles and chef Xavier Moncayo, the duo who expertly ran the kitchen

Assistant chef Roberto Urgiles and chef Xavier Moncayo, the duo who expertly ran the kitchen

Both Xavier and Roberto are from Guayaquil, Ecuador, where they trained at Escuela de los Chefs. Xavier has worked for Ecoventura for four-and-a-half years, while Roberto started working for the company one year ago. Usually the duo work together on Ecoventura’s other ships, the Eric and the Flamingo, but this week they’d been asked to work on the Letty. The two of them compose the entire kitchen crew. As Orlando told me, “No other people are allowed to go into the kitchen to work with them. They have responsibility of the kitchen.”

Their long day starts early, preparing for breakfast at 7:30. Lunch was served around 12:30, and dinner about 7:00. In between, they prepared snacks. Every time we returned from snorkeling or walking onshore, they had plates of pastries, appetizers like mini quesadillas and pitchers of juice waiting. And always something special hidden away for me. Once they made me a whole plate of fresh pineapple and green maraschino cherry kabobs.

Now that I'm home, I miss having somebody to artistically arrange my snacks.

Now that I’m home, I miss having somebody to artistically arrange my snacks.

Xavier said they average at least one passenger with a special diet every week, whether it’s vegetarian, gluten-free, lactose-intolerant or diabetics who have to watch out for carbs. While not all special diets were covered in their initial culinary school training, they have picked up a lot in continuing education classes. Their schedule has them working eight weeks straight, then four weeks off. Ecoventura sends them to school in Guayaquil for at least one week during almost every vacation, Roberto said.

This dinner of polenta and salad rolls was especially good.

This dinner of polenta and salad rolls was especially good.

Xavier and Roberto are particularly talented at carving fruits and vegetables, a specialty they learned at culinary school. One day we came back from snorkeling and found an amazing display of their artistic prowess. It’s mind-boggling to think how they found time for this achievement in between their regular duties.

Roberto Urgiles and Xavier Mancayo show off their culinary carvings and sculptures.

Roberto Urgiles and Xavier Mancayo show off their culinary carvings and sculptures.

The Ecoventura’s menus are coordinated by a chef in the company’s mainland Ecuador headquarters. “Every day, on all the boats, it’s exactly the same,” Roberto said.  A week’s worth of food is bought before each cruise starts. They manage to keep everything very fresh, including the many salads they served for the daily lunch buffet. Even if they hadn’t made me special entrees, I would have had plenty to eat from all the salad and fruit.

Jaws!!!!

Jaws!!!!

This one was so beautiful!

This one was so beautiful!

Both Xavier and Roberto plan to continue their kitchen careers. Xavier would like to one day own a ceviche restaurant in Guayaquil. He made me a vegan version of this seafood soup, which was excellent. Roberto would like to one day be the chef that sets the menus for all the company’s ships. He sees lots more training in his future. Despite his accomplishments and talent, he considers himself more a cook than a chef. He wants to one day be a “chef chef,” as Orlando put it.

Portrait of Charles Darwin, famous Galapagos visitor, carved by Ecoventura chef.

Portrait of Charles Darwin, famous Galapagos visitor

I also learned a bit more about the crew’s living arrangements. The captain has a private cabin next to the bridge, the two naturalists share a room and the remaining eight crew members all bunk together in a big cabin with two bathrooms. Despite the long hours, close quarters, and eight weeks straight of working, every single crew member showed me nothing but respect, courtesy and good cheer. As someone who gets cranky pretty easily, I was really humbled by how they managed to do this.

Okay, now for a few animals!

Blue-footed boobies. The baby on the left has not yet matured into its blue feet.

Blue-footed boobies. The baby on the left has not yet matured into its blue feet.

This young frigate is about a year old.

This young frigate is about a year old.

The Galapagos hawk gave me a funny look.

The Galapagos hawk gave me a funny look.

My new friend Latha admires a giant tortoise in the Santa Cruz highlands.

My new friend Latha, also an Ecoventura passenger, admires a giant tortoise in the Santa Cruz highlands.

Lava lizards live on most of the islands. This one makes its home on Floreana.

Lava lizards live on most of the islands. This one makes its home on Floreana.

These adorable black marine iguanas blend in with lava rocks.

These adorable black marine iguanas blend in with lava rocks.

Land iguana on North Seymour Island. What a face! Ecoventura adventures.

Land iguana on North Seymour Island. What a face!

We saw a lot of sea lions.

We saw a lot of sea lions on our shore expeditions from the Ecoventura.

Here I am teaching yoga to a sea lion.

Here I am teaching yoga to a sea lion.

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