Planning your trip to Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula only two weeks ahead during high season means a lot of places will already be booked. Everybody wants to visit in August, when this famously rainy area is a little drier.

Another thing about the peninsula: It’s big. The southernmost part is about four hours north of Portland, the northernmost at least seven. And if you want to drive around the entire Olympic National Park? Well, that’s at least 8 hours in the car. And you did want to get out and hike, didn’t you?

Add a dog into the equation, and you have a bigger quandary. Like most national parks, Olympic isn’t exactly a dog fan. We found the Olympic National Forest much more welcoming.

But my boyfriend, dog and I still managed to have a beautiful, magical four days on the Olympic Peninsula. Here are a few highlights.

Marmot Pass

Climbing 3500 feet in 5.2 miles is a bit of a slog, but a beautiful one. This is on the drier eastern side of the peninsula, so chances for avoiding rain are better here. We took our time walking along the Big Quilcene River beneath old-growth hemlocks and cedars. Once the path turns away from the river, the steep part begins. But the views make it worth it. If you’re like me – not so sure-footed on the steep downhill – I highly recommend trekking poles. And snacks. And a water filter. I hoped my efforts would be rewarded by seeing a large extended family of marmots at the top, but we only saw one.

Ruby Beach

Who needs sunny beaches when you have mysterious fog, giant driftwood, and tide pools filled with green anemones and ochre stars? This gorgeous beach pleased us all. It’s right on Highway 101, 27 miles south of vampire-filled Forks. Good for tide pool-watching, sitting on a log to chat with friends or throwing a stick to your dog. Wear a jacket. Don’t expect a suntan.

 

The Glen Ayr Resort

The Glen Ayr Resort offers motel rooms or RV camping in Hoodsport, at the southern end of the peninsula and right on the Hood Canal. Our room was pretty standard, but some of the amenities made the place special. The large Jacuzzi and picnic gazebo were pretty great. But my favorite Glen Ayr amenity is a private dock on the Hood Canal. Boaters and divers love this. For me, it was one of the greatest places ever for early morning yoga. The tide was very low in the morning. So I saw sea stars, anemones and bazillions of barnacles on the exposed pilings. Just inches above the water level, the dock rolled with the water’s motion, and at times brought me almost eye to eye with curious seals. I hoped to see the tentacle of a giant Pacific octopus, but that was a little much to ask. Later my dentist told me that his first diving experience was at the Hood Canal. Underwater, he shared a raw scallop with a fearsome-looking wolf eel. I love the Hood Canal!

Hoh Rainforest

We debated going to the Hoh itself. This quintessential Pacific Northwest rainforest is in the national park itself. The park allows dogs on a few very short and crowded trails. After lots of discussion, we decided to make the long drive to the Hoh on our last day and leave poor Rudy in the car for 90 minutes (Don’t worry, it wasn’t a hot day). This added about eight hours onto our drive home. Which was a little crazy. But oh my God, this is one of the most beautiful places in the world. Worth a long drive and missing our sleep that night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vegan Thai Food in Aberdeen

We mostly cooked our own meals on a camp stove in our room, or ate crackers and peanut butter sandwiches while hiking. So we were more than ready for hot, fresh vegan Thai food at Thai Smiles. This funny little Aberdeen restaurant inhabits a former hot dog stand. You can’t miss the brightly colored murals painted on every side.