Planning your trip to Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula only two weeks ahead during high season means a lot of places will already be booked. Everybody wants to visit in August, when this famously rainy area is a little drier.
Another thing about the peninsula: It’s big. The southernmost part is about four hours north of Portland, the northernmost at least seven. And if you want to drive around the entire Olympic National Park? Well, that’s at least 8 hours in the car. And you did want to get out and hike, didn’t you?
Add a dog into the equation, and you have a bigger quandary. Like most national parks, Olympic isn’t exactly a dog fan. We found the Olympic National Forest much more welcoming.
But my boyfriend, dog and I still managed to have a beautiful, magical four days on the Olympic Peninsula. Here are a few highlights.
Climbing 3500 feet in 5.2 miles is a bit of a slog, but a beautiful one. This is on the drier eastern side of the peninsula, so chances for avoiding rain are better here. We took our time walking along the Big Quilcene River beneath old-growth hemlocks and cedars. Once the path turns away from the river, the steep part begins. But the views make it worth it. If you’re like me – not so sure-footed on the steep downhill – I highly recommend trekking poles. And snacks. And a water filter. I hoped my efforts would be rewarded by seeing a large extended family of marmots at the top, but we only saw one.
Who needs sunny beaches when you have mysterious fog, giant driftwood, and tide pools filled with green anemones and ochre stars? This gorgeous beach pleased us all. It’s right on Highway 101, 27 miles south of vampire-filled Forks. Good for tide pool-watching, sitting on a log to chat with friends or throwing a stick to your dog. Wear a jacket. Don’t expect a suntan.
The Glen Ayr Resort
The Glen Ayr Resort offers motel rooms or RV camping in Hoodsport, at the southern end of the peninsula and right on the Hood Canal. Our room was pretty standard, but some of the amenities made the place special. The large Jacuzzi and picnic gazebo were pretty great. But my favorite Glen Ayr amenity is a private dock on the Hood Canal. Boaters and divers love this. For me, it was one of the greatest places ever for early morning yoga. The tide was very low in the morning. So I saw sea stars, anemones and bazillions of barnacles on the exposed pilings. Just inches above the water level, the dock rolled with the water’s motion, and at times brought me almost eye to eye with curious seals. I hoped to see the tentacle of a giant Pacific octopus, but that was a little much to ask. Later my dentist told me that his first diving experience was at the Hood Canal. Underwater, he shared a raw scallop with a fearsome-looking wolf eel. I love the Hood Canal!
We debated going to the Hoh itself. This quintessential Pacific Northwest rainforest is in the national park itself. The park allows dogs on a few very short and crowded trails. After lots of discussion, we decided to make the long drive to the Hoh on our last day and leave poor Rudy in the car for 90 minutes (Don’t worry, it wasn’t a hot day). This added about eight hours onto our drive home. Which was a little crazy. But oh my God, this is one of the most beautiful places in the world. Worth a long drive and missing our sleep that night.
Vegan Thai Food in Aberdeen
We mostly cooked our own meals on a camp stove in our room, or ate crackers and peanut butter sandwiches while hiking. So we were more than ready for hot, fresh vegan Thai food at Thai Smiles. This funny little Aberdeen restaurant inhabits a former hot dog stand. You can’t miss the brightly colored murals painted on every side.
Wellrox contacted me a couple of years back to introduce its new line of shoes featuring toe-separation technology. Since it’s always fun and an honor to be asked to test new products, I was happy to try them out. But disappointed at the time that their shoes were leather. Now I’m thrilled they have a vegan option. Their vegan shoe, called “The Casey,” has the same toe separators and arch support as their other shoes, but no leather.
I grew up in San Diego, where we wore a lot of flip flops. I love flip flops, but these are WAY BETTER. You don’t have to scrunch up your toes to keep them on. And I can easily walk two or three miles in my Wellrox shoes. I even wore them on a Segway tour, though I’d recommend closed-toe shoes as safer for dismounting.
The Casey comes in solid black or brown, or blue/red, red/pink or natural/black multicolor. I think the red and pink is cutest, but I ordered the black so they’d go with everything.
I still have the same aesthetic complaint as I do with the other Wellrox shoes. I wish they were a little narrower and shorter – there’s excess shoe beyond my toes. I feel more Sasquatch than femme fatale in these rather clunky shoes. They’re not as cute as my bling rhinestone flip flops. But they’re much better for my feet.
Here’s the short version of Wellrox GRABS technology:
G = Gripping
A = Alignment
B = Balance
S = Support
Find out more at the Wellrox website.
During a recent heatwave in Portland, my boyfriend, dog and I cooled off on the Long Beach, Washington Peninsula. You won’t find the Queen Mary here – that’s the other Long Beach. If you’re booking online, make sure you have the right Long Beach before entering any credit card numbers! Long Beach, Washington may not have an iconic 1936 ocean liner to draw guests. But there are plenty of reasons to visit. Here are a few we found.
This 8.3-mile paved trail takes you through seas of grass, forest, and gives you ocean views. History buffs will enjoy the Lewis and Clark markers along the way. This is a nice, flat trail for walking, jogging, biking or cruising in a wheelchair. We stayed at the dog-friendly Chautauqua Lodge, which was affordable and right on the trail. The Discovery Trail runs from Ilwaco to Long Beach.
After we paid 10 bucks to enter the Cape Disappointment State Park, we decided we better make a day of it. This is an easy place to get your money’s worth, as you can admire an old lighthouse ($2.50 more to go inside), hike through ferns and forest, and look at a crazy amount of driftwood washed up on the beach. We took the North Head Trail for a quiet forest walk.
Dogs Love the Beach
Sand. Unpredictable waves. Kelp and smelly dead fish to roll in. Dogs love the beach! Rudy romped through waves, nosed kelp piles and dug himself a burrow under a piece of driftwood to cool off. But nothing beats getting wet and sandy, then having a good shake all over your people.
Roadside attraction fans probably already have Long Beach on their bucket list. If you’ve ever seen an “I brake for Jake” bumper sticker, you have encountered Long Beach’s most famous resident: Jake the alligator man. Preserved in mummified form in Marsh’s Free Museum, visitors come from all over the world to ponder Jake’s twisted human scowl and alligator hindquarters. But wait, there’s more! Did you know Long Beach also boasts the world’s largest chopsticks, frying pan and replica of a razor clam? Insert a quarter and the clam squirts a stream of water.
Crab Pot Buoy Art
Some of my favorite people in the world are those passionate individuals who create bizarre works of art in their yards. Driving through the Seaview area of Long Beach, we came across a yard decorated with hundreds of crab pot buoys. What a colorful and fun display! The artist has collected them over a lifetime. They’ve washed up on the beach from Alaska, California, and even Japan.
Long Beach Thai provided us with an excellent dinner and were very accommodating about honoring vegetarian requests. No fish sauce? No problem. We got pra ram – noodles covered with spinach and peanut sauce, and a coconut-based veg curry. Delicious. We ate way too much.
They call it “the best roast on the coast.” Well, I believe it. Long Beach Coffee Roasters lets you choose between four different types of brewed coffee, plus all the usual espresso drinks. And they had good, plain soymilk rather than the disgusting vanilla-flavored that some chains serve. The atmosphere is inviting and coffee-chic, with burlap coffee bean bags from around the world decorating one wall, and lots of comfortable chairs and a couch. But don’t come here for the food. They had two packaged cookies and two packaged pieces of fruit bread when we visited in the morning, and the same four items when we came back for a refill a couple of hours later. This place is focused on coffee.
I’d only ever passed through Idaho a couple of times. But in mid-June, my boyfriend, a Keeshond and I headed for the wilderness. The Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness in northern Idaho, that is, which we accessed off a pristine stretch of Highway 12. This route was historically used by Nez Perce Indians and Lewis and Clark. So if you like hiking and history, this is the perfect area to visit.
Our most rugged hike of the trip was to Wind Lakes. This is on the way to Grave Peak, which is known for its old 1924 fire lookout. First you leave Highway 12 and drive about 15 miles up gravelly forest roads to reach the trailhead. The hike up to the lakes starts out through meadows dotted with heather and tiny yellow avalanche lilies. But get ready for wet feet: You have to cross chilly streams about 10 times each way. The water depth ranged from ankles to knees, and wasn’t moving too fast. At first I was constantly changing between Tevas and hiking boots. But every time we stopped, the mosquitoes swarmed us. They didn’t much bother my boyfriend. But if you’re delicious like me, you’ll want to carry a case of DEET. On our way back we tromped through with our boots on before the skeeters drained us completely. Aside from bloodsucking menaces, it’s a gorgeous hike and we felt very remote. We didn’t see anybody else the whole nearly six miles each way. But I’m sure some creatures saw us. Rudy the Keeshond stayed between my boyfriend and me almost the whole way, rather than venturing off on side trips as he usually does. Did he see a bear? Smell wolf pee? Who knows?
Many folks come to this area to enjoy hot springs, especially the popular Jerry Johnson. We visited both Jerry Johnson and Weir. The single pool at Weir is an easy half mile or so up a trail off 12, set up high overlooking trees and a stream. It’s a small pool. We were lucky to have it to ourselves. The rocks were a bit jagged inside, so be careful if you go.
The next day we went to Jerry Johnson, which had multiple pools to choose from. We went in the large pool that was farthest from the road. We were alone there for maybe 20 minutes when a couple from Michigan joined us. I’ve heard that in the past people usually went in these hot springs nude. But the handful of people I saw at Jerry Johnson were all wearing swimsuits. So pack a suit if you don’t want to be the only nudie.
On our way from Portland to the wilderness, we stopped at the Nez Perce National Historical Park Visitor Center in Spalding, Idaho. Here you’ll see many of the tribe’s treasures, which they’ve loaned to the National Park Service to display. The Nez Perce are known for their beadwork and dyed corn husk bags. Spalding was also the site of an early Presbyterian mission. If you walk down the hill from the visitor’s center you’ll see the old church, a graveyard and other relics of the early mission.
If you pass through Kamiah, don’t miss the Heart of the Monster. It looks like a big rock, but according to Nez Perce tradition, this is where their tribe started. Press a button on an audio kiosk and you’ll hear a Nez Perce man tell you the story of Coyote – the leading character in Nez Perce lore – fighting a terrible monster.
Campgrounds abound along Highway 12. But if you want extra comfort, there’s the Lochsa Lodge in Powell, Idaho. This cute collection of cabins, a country store, restaurant, gift shop and gas pump perch above the Lochsa River. Our wood-paneled lodge room was very comfortable. I loved the crazy loud dawn chorus of birds in the morning, doing yoga on a big grassy area overlooking the river, and walking Rudy around the grounds at night. Something was always going on by the fire pit. One night a very talented fiddler was out there, fiddling all by himself. Lochsa Lodge is a popular stop for bicyclists riding the northern route across America. We met a half dozen bike riders, including Scott Bell, who’s raising funds for custom bicycles for injured veterans.
The Lochsa Lodge restaurant had a few vegetarian dishes on the menu. I recommend the salads. The veggie burger was good – hundreds of miles from the nearest Trader Joe’s I was too grateful it was on the menu to mind that it was frozen rather than housemade. The pasta primavera was too creamy for me, but my boyfriend liked it. The lodge is known for its huckleberry desserts, which come into season a little later in summer.
We only ate in the restaurant once. Bringing lots of food and a camp stove saved us lots of money and gave us more variety than the restaurant could provide vegetarians.
My Idaho-loving boyfriend asked me if Idaho is now my favorite state. I’m not going that far yet, but it’s definitely moved up a few notches.
I’d never thought about what a green state Missouri is. On a recent trip to Branson and other southern parts of the state, lush plants grew everywhere and the smell of honeysuckle filled neighborhoods.
Dogwood Canyon Nature Park on the Missouri/Arkansas border is one place to appreciate the greenery. Visiting is pricy – just getting to walk the six-mile trail on the grounds is $14.95 per adult – but if you want to make a day of it in a family-friendly nature atmosphere, it’s a pretty nice place to walk and bike ride. Other activities include horseback riding, Segway touring, fishing and 3D archery.
The park is one of the many projects of Missouri billionaire (estimated $4.1 billion on the 2015 Forbes list) Johnny Morris. I’d never heard of Morris before my recent trip to Missouri. But during my week there, his name came up over and over. His story in brief: local boy who started by peddling fishing lures in father’s liquor store, grows up to found Bass Pro sporting goods empire. Spreads his money around southern Missouri building Big Cedar Lodge, Dogwood Canyon Nature Park and other places that promote nature, fishing and the outdoors lifestyle. The nature park is managed by the Dogwood Canyon Foundation, a non-profit dedicated to preserving and protecting the canyon’s flora and fauna.
Since I was traveling with a group, I was not mistress of my destiny. Thus I wound up on the guided tram ride, rather than walking or biking. However, the tram had its advantages. While my butt widened, I saw more of the preserve than I would have walking. The tram takes visitors into the wildlife area, which includes elk, bison and long-horned cows. None of whom are very wild, considering the driver feeds them a mixture of corn, pressed grass and molasses that has bisons stumbling out of the trees toward the tram like crack addicts. I learned it’s easy to get a close-up photo of a bison when it’s busy sucking up molasses. And it made bison relatable; I, too, love molasses.
Here are a few highlights of my visit to Dogwood Canyon Nature Park.
On an April afternoon in the Anza-Borrego Desert, the light was white-hot and the temperature a scorching 91 degrees. When I got out of the car, my eyes, used to Portland gloom, could barely stay open. But after half an hour, they adjusted. Thank goodness. One of my sisters had helpfully warned me about rattlesnake season, so I had to keep a close watch for the desert’s coiled, rattling citizens.
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is California’s biggest state park. Located on the east side of San Diego County, it includes 12 wilderness areas, 500 miles of dirt roads, and many hiking opportunities for desert lovers. It takes about two hours to drive to the park from San Diego. The name “Borrego” comes from the Spanish word for bighorn sheep, a species which dwells here.
My boyfriend and I had ventured into the desert to go on the park’s most popular hike, a three-mile round-trip to a palm oasis. It’s truly strange to walk through the dry desert – made even drier by the current Southern California drought – then come upon green palm trees and a little creek. It looks like a mirage. But the palm grove is for real. Palms grow along earthquake faults in the desert, where water seeps up and keeps the trees alive. And supposedly coyotes are the gardeners. They eat seeds in one place, then leave them elsewhere in their droppings, thus sprinkling the canyon with palm trees.
Back in the 1920s, the Borrego palm canyon inspired folks to plan a desert state park around it. Nowadays the palm canyon trail is the park’s most popular. But on our visit, we encountered only three other people. Like us, they wanted to hang out in the palm-shaded grotto and cool off. In one of those small world travel experiences, one of them had attended the same high school as my boyfriend. Go Pirates!
If you find yourself in the Anza-Borrego Desert, this is a fun trail. It’s short and easy, but the sun is bright and hot. Bring lots of water and wear your sunscreen and sun hat. Pack a lunch and plan to relax inside the grotto for a while.
At first glance, Omaha’s Candlewood Suites is just another airport hotel. Seen one, seen them all, right? But the Candlewood has some good things to offer health-conscious travelers like me. Here are five things I appreciated about this hotel.
- This room is spacious! Plenty of floor space for morning yoga, or a session with the resistance band and jump rope you packed. You didn’t forget your jump rope, did you?
2. You have your own kitchen. This means you can prepare your own health food. Or if you go out to eat, you’ll feel less inclined to stuff all that delicious restaurant meal down your gullet knowing you can stow leftovers in your hotel fridge.
3. Too tired to go out in search of food? Ready to hit the vending machines and dine on peanut butter crackers and Red Vines? Hold on. Down in the lobby gift store, you can get an actual vegetarian or vegan frozen dinner. I don’t know when I’ve ever seen Amy’s brand foods in a hotel gift shop. I was impressed.
4. The hotel gym is small but adequate. In addition to a couple of cardio machines, there’s a rack of free weights and a few of those intriguingly versatile hotel gym machines with lots of attachments. Best of all, you can try out The Bean. This as-seen-on-TV exercise product looks like a giant inflatable bean. The Candlewood Suites thoughtfully left a manila folder full of The Bean exercises. This was my first encounter with The Bean. While I don’t plan to buy one, it made for an entertaining workout.
5. Ready to go outside? Right across the street from the Candlewood, Carter Lake offers lovely flat paths for a walk or run. It’s also a popular place for urban birding. Watch for geese and ducks. If it’s a sunny early morning like the one during my recent stay, don’t be tricked into thinking that sunny means warm. You might need a hat and gloves.
Everybody has their travel bugaboos. Some folks pack a special pillow. Others can barely tolerate sitting on an airplane for 12 hours, or freak out about getting lost in a strange place. Me, I always worry about bad coffee and a lack of veg food. This fear is especially chilling in a state which prides itself on supplying one out of three of the country’s steaks and hamburgers.
But The Chocolate Bar in Grand Island, Nebraska, solved both these problems. And offers excellent chocolate, too.
Why does a café in this Nebraska town offer multiple vegan options? Chocolate Bar employee Danae McCoy, culinary artist, is their resident vegan. She’s been vegan for more than two years. In her quest for fertility, she sought the best diet. That brought her to the movie Vegucated. “I went vegan overnight,” she told me during a brief lull in the lunch rush. “There’s so much I didn’t know about the animal industry.” Grand Island has a local vegetarian organization called Veggienforcers, and quite a few vegans in town, Danae said.
When first entering The Chocolate Bar, it’s easy to mistake the long, narrow restaurant for a café. But while they offer excellent coffee – I had Black Cat espresso roasted by Intelligentsia in Chicago, by far the best caffeine I had all week, coupled with a rare soy milk sighting in central Nebraska – they also offer a full lunch menu. While there’s no dinner menu, lunch is offered till close, which is 10PM Monday through Thursday and “late,” according to their website, on Friday and Saturday. Avoid Grand Island on Sunday, when The Chocolate Bar is closed.
It took Danae a while to convince the powers-that-be, but they finally relented and tried out some dishes centered on Portobello mushrooms. They were a hit. Three dishes revolve around vegan pesto and Portobellos: a sandwich, a wrap and a salad. I got the salad, which featured hunks of bread grilled with olive oil then spread with pesto. Also, the salad featured fresh mixed greens, a marvelous oasis in an iceberg lettuce kind of state. Diners can also order a mushroom as a meat substitute in any wrap on the menu.
During my visit, owner Sharena Anson was out of the shop. But her mother/employee Lori Arriola and barista/barkeep Elizabeth Frady filled me in on The Chocolate Bar’s history. It opened 3 ½ years ago. Lori said Sharena had dreamed of opening the business for about four years before that. While Sharena likes coffee, her true love is baking. “She’s been baking for as long as I can remember,” Lori told me. But once she opened her restaurant, she got so busy she had to hire somebody else to bake.
The biggest sellers in the bakery department are an almond butter rainbow cake, with festive orange and pink polka dots in the frosting, and the old-fashioned chocolate cake.
On the way out, my local guide pointed at some old buildings which are getting a makeover. Sharena and her husband own them, too, and are hard at work revitalizing downtown Grand Island on a shoestring budget, he said. Okay. I’m a fan. Delicious desserts, perfect coffee drinks and multiple vegan options paired with deep commitment to the local community. All vegetarians and vegans passing through central Nebraska should stop by for a wrap and an espresso.
On a recent trip to Bend, Oregon, the best place I ate was Joolz. This Mediterranean restaurant has plenty of vegan food, but is also good for a mixed group of omnivores who want elk in their hummus and other such oddities. And it’s quite pretty, with multi-colored glass lamps and lots of draped fabrics that give it a tent-like feel.
For us veg people, the dukkah nuts ($6) are a perfect starter. Toasted hunks of house bread, olive oil and a big pile of ground pistachios, almonds, hazelnuts, and sesame seeds flavored with cumin, coriander and sea salt. The oil makes the nuts stick to the bread. Genius.
If I had endless appetite and funds, the marinated spiced olives with lemon and pepper also sounded good. Dairy fans have some interesting choices, including yogurt topped with zataar spices and a pan-seared cheese with pomegranate reduction.
I ordered the biggest veg entrée, the vegetarian plate ($22). This included arugula salad, a pile of tiny stuffed grape leaves, green garbanzo beans, cauliflower, three lemony falafels, tahini sauce and pita bread. The fresh, flash-fried cauliflower with lemon and parsley was extra good. Actually, everything was. I felt sort of guilty because I forgot to save anything for the dog.
I’ve always been superstitious about New Year’s Eve. I worry that a stupid start to the new year will lead to a stupid year. So I’m leery of loud and drunken parties full of people I don’t know or care about.
This year my boyfriend and I decided to take his dog to Mount Hood, where 2015 could start in a snowy, quiet way. I was hoping to find a cabin to stay in, but they all required a two-night minimum and we only had one day off together. Somebody recommended Resort at the Mountain as a place where we could stay a single night and bring a dog. I called and learned that the dog weight cutoff is 50 pounds. Fortunately, Rudy weighs 45.
The resort features a golf course and spa. It’s pretty large – people typically drive between reception and the steam room, at least when it’s snowing. The rooms where dogs can stay are down the road a half mile or so from reception in a one-story building that looks like an ordinary motel. The rooms share a large, fenced-in backyard for romping dogs. Inside was a nice, standard, comfortable room. This block of dog rooms feels cut off from the rest of the resort because, well, it is. So if you stay here when the temperature is in the 20s, mentally prepare for driving to the pool and other far-flung parts of the resort.
The pool area was disappointing. The area surrounding the pool was icy. Several of the gates weren’t working, so we shivered in our swimsuits and cover-ups, vainly trying our key cards until we found a gate that opened. We ventured toward the Jacuzzi twice. The first time we were put off by a screaming child, the second by a tub full of yelling young people and clinking bottles.
Altitude is the name of the resort’s restaurant. We ordered from the room service menu, which was a good value and featured several vegetarian dishes. The house salad ($9) is immense, full of mixed greens, candied nuts and champagne vinaigrette. You can get a hummus plate ($10), a black bean burger ($11) or a stuffed bell pepper ($15). I got the pepper, which was very good but different than described on the menu. What was advertised as a vegan item full of brown rice, lentils and marinara arrived stuffed with quinoa and covered in cheese. The dog appreciated the cheese, but vegans won’t be thrilled by this dairy surprise. Gluten-free folks can choose between four different entrees.
Overall, the resort was pleasant and comfortable but, at around $200 for one night, pretty pricey. I was willing to pay that much to start the new year at Mount Hood, but on an ordinary night I couldn’t justify the expense.
However, the location is great. We were only a mile or two from the Salmon River, which has a very easy, mostly flat trail. We drove up to Timberline Lodge and watched the last sunset of 2014 turn the snowy mountain pink. Trudging through snow, marveling at giant icicles, being with someone I love and watching a very happy dog were all great ways to end one year and start a new one.