If I hadn’t known Be Love was a vegan restaurant when I walked in, I never would have guessed. It looks as chic and modern as any upscale, urban restaurant. And that was kind of the point, co-owner Joe Cunliffe told me. When he and his sister Heather opened the restaurant two years ago, they were going for a mainstream clientele who wanted good cooking with high-quality ingredients.
The siblings grew up in Canada’s Gulf Islands, where an alternative lifestyle is de rigeur. They had a big garden. “Mom made everything from scratch,” Joe told me.
He went away and worked as vice president for College Pro Painters, running the company’s New England territory. But eventually he returned to Victoria to work side by side with his sister, spreading a message of health through good eating.
During my visit on a weekday night in November, the place was packed. Unlike most of Victoria, which empties out after October, Be Love is more a local spot than a touristy one. It was so crowded, I took a seat at the bar with my large backpack crammed down by my feet. But it was the perfect spot from which to quiz Joe about the restaurant. Joe had to learn bartending on the job. Now he creates Be Love’s special drinks, which incorporate healthy ingredients. If you want a kombucha whiskey sour or drinks made with organic blackberry juice, this is your place.
The menu features Heather’s creative recipes, such as crispy pumpkin ravioli. Joe’s girlfriend, who took a seat beside me at the bar, said she always orders the green bowl. Though they change the menu seasonally, the green bowl – a mix of dark greens, broccolini, baby bok choy, mushrooms and veggies in Thai green coconut curry topped with avocado, cashews, cilantro and scallions – always stays. “There’d be a riot if we changed the green bowl,” Joe said.
But I was intrigued by a vegan sag paneer. Since I usually avoid dairy, I don’t generally eat paneer, the soft Indian cheese. However, this dish was made with cashew paneer. Here’s the official description: South Indian curried greens with cashew paneer, apple chutney and coconut yogurt raita, served with sweet potato naan and turmeric-scented brown rice. It was fabulous! And quite photogenic.
Joe said he’s been surprised by how overwhelmingly female the clientele is. His theory? “I think women are more sensitive to how they’re feeling.” Be Love’s food will make you feel good.