Paddling in Every State

This page is dedicated to my goal of paddling in every state. And some Canadian provinces and other countries, too. My first time in a kayak was in 2015, on the Caney River in Tennessee. I loved the quiet, the feel of the water, how close I was to wildlife on the shore. I was soon hooked. Now I seek out kayaks and stand up paddle boards at every opportunity, joining group tours or renting them with friends.

As I start this project, it’s a little daunting because I have so many states to go! But I hope to fill them in over the next few years.

Alabama

Alaska

Kayaking in Alaska was one of my most exciting paddling experiences so far. Partly because it was so beautiful, but also because I was on a small-ship wilderness cruise with UnCruise Adventures that went into remote areas. Our 7-day cruise departed from Juneau and took us around Southeastern Alaska.

Cousin Julia up front

Most days, we saw nobody except the other folks on the boat. We launched the kayaks off the back of the ship directly into very cold, very deep water. Paddling among glaciers, knowing that a whale or even a grizzly bear might swim by at any second added extra thrills. Plus, I was with my lovely cousin Julia, so it was a special cousin bonding experience.

Paddling by Dawes Glacier

Arizona

Arkansas


California

I’m originally from California and visit frequently. Seemed like every time I visited, I vowed to myself I would get out on a SUP or kayak. But somehow I always got caught up in family and other stuff and had never managed to paddle there. Finally, in July 2019, I rented a paddle board from the SUP Connection in Liberty Station, formerly San Diego’s famous naval training center. There’s a little finger channel of water that runs along Liberty Station, a protected pocket off the San Diego Bay. The water was nice and calm, perfect for an outing with one of my San Diego friends. Usually we go on walks together while I visit, but instead we had a chatty paddle.

Looking out from a blue kayak at San Diego's boats and skyline

On my next visit, I rented a kayak and ventured into the water between Spanish Landing and Harbor Island. There’s a little more boat traffic there, but still pretty mellow. Daredevils can go out into the wilder water of the bay. Good people watching here, and a high likelihood of seeing dogs on SUPs, which is one of the cutest sights I know.

Double dog SUP!

Colorado

Connecticut

Delaware

Florida

Canoe guide Mike Cole told me that he and his friends grew up paddling more than hiking, as Florida is too hot and flat to be an ideal hiking locale. His lifelong paddling experience reassures me as he steers us through an alligator-filled stretch of the Hillsborough River 20 minutes outside Tampa in Thonotosassa, Florida.

Mike and me looking for gators. Note my cool manatee cap.

This was an awesome trip where we saw about 50 alligators from mini to pretty freaking big, snakes, turtles and some swamp-loving birds I’d never even heard of. It’s fabulous that you can see all this in an afternoon from Tampa. Canoe Escape will guide you, or let you rent your own canoe and wish you luck with the gators.

You can also see downtown Tampa from the water. I got a one-on-one paddleboard lesson from Aida Perez, manager of Urban Kai. We set out from the Armature Works building on Tampa’s Riverwalk, and made our way under bridges and passing the University of Tampa to get a view of the downtown skyline.

Cruising through downtown Tampa in my neon PFD

Urban Kai also offers an eco tour through mangroves near Saint Petersburg. Aida said that’s a good place to look for dolphins and manatees.

Georgia

If you get in a kayak at ten on an August morning in Georgia, you have to expect to pretty much be stew by noon. Yep, I was a hot and disgusting mess, but it was so worth it.

kayak Jekyll Island
OMG, it’s yet another kayak selfie!

I’d signed on to a two-hour tour with the 4-H Tidelands Nature Center on Jekyll Island, one of the Golden Isles on the Georgia coast halfway between Savannah and Jacksonville. Our guide, Corinne Zelie, is a program specialist at the nature center. Which means she does pretty much everything from admin tasks to taking people like me out in kayaks.

kayak jekyll island
Cruising through the salt marsh

Our group was tiny, just Corinne, a couple visiting from North Carolina, their adult son who lives in Atlanta, and me. We paddled around in a salt marsh while Corinne pointed out the wildlife. It was low tide and the birds were hungry. We watched roseate spoonbills clack their bills in the muck, feeling for shrimp. Lots of herons and egrets were out, too. We cruised over oyster beds and saw a zillion shells.

salt marsh jekyll island
Roseate spoonbills

Corinne took us to a water outlet pipe that always attracts manatees. We saw a couple of manatee noses pop up for a breath of air, and a manatee back. The water was murky, so we couldn’t see most of the manatee.

Most exciting for me was my first time kayaking with dolphins and sharks! Okay, little sharks. I said, “Corinne, how big was that shark, about four feet long?”

She said, “Uh, maybe two.”

Nah, I’m going with four.

Hawaii

Idaho

When we go on family vacations –my husband, Keeshond Rudy and I—our activities revolve around dog-friendly activities. And since Rudy’s not much of a swimmer, that mostly means hiking. Rudy is extremely fluffy with shortish legs, so it’s easy for him to get waterlogged. He’s never going to be a SUP dog.

Snow-capped mountains! And look how clear the water is!

I like hiking, but not as much as my husband. I’m always itching to get on the water. So on a 2018 trip to Idaho, we solved this quandary by renting one kayak and taking turns paddling and hanging out with Rudy on the beach.

Bummer, Rudy, you have to wait on the beach.

Redfish Lake could not have been prettier. And we went on a nice, calm day—just the way I like it. I saw tons of fish. You can rent all sorts of watercraft at the Redfish Lake Lodge Marina, from a single kayak  for $10 an hour to a 7-person SUP for $35 per hour.

My husband takes a turn.

Illinois

Indiana

Iowa

Kansas

Kentucky

Louisiana

Maine

Maryland

Massachusetts

Michigan

This was in 2016, and was only my second ever kayak journey. I was with three or four super-experienced paddlers, and a guy from LA who was as clueless as me. I was already a bit intimidated by being with pros like
Alex Howbert of Detroit River Sports , who led this outing on the Detroit River, accompanied by SUP entrepreneur Matt Lennert.

Detroit Water sports
Alex Howbert, owner of Detroit River Sports, leading my kayak posse.

Pretty soon I realized that on my previous kayak outing, I’d been going straight down a river. So I hadn’t experimented with steering. But in Detroit, we wound through a series of canals. I kept running into people’s docks and then yelling, “How do I go backwards?” Then running into another dock and promptly forgetting what they’d just told me. About the fourth time I got myself lodged against someone’s dock, a pit bull ran out and starting barking his head off. He looked about ready to launch himself into my kayak. I tried to reason with him — “I’m sorry to dis you dog, I just don’t know how to steer,” etc– while the guy from LA laughed at me. I was very lucky the dog decided he didn’t want to end up in the water. A narrow escape from a Detroit-tough pitbull.


Wait, how do you steer?

Minnesota

Mississippi

Missouri

Montana

Paddling in the Seeley-Swan Valley is an absolute dream if you like clear water, mountain views and not a lot of people around. Highway 83 has lakes at least every couple of miles, and I got to paddle board in three of them.

A SUP on the shore of a pristine Montana lake
A SUP just waiting for adventure

Holland Lake was the most touristy, with a lodge, nice swimming area and canoe, kayak and SUP rentals. Van Lake was too small for people to put their fast boats in. It was just a couple of people fishing from rowboats and me. And bald eagles! One of which swiped a fish right off someone’s line. Our most remote stop was Clearwater. After dragging the inflatable SUP about .7 miles down a dirt trail, I had my first experience ever of being the only watercraft on an entire lake!

A lone man on a paddle board
Gideon cruising around a remote Montana lake.

Nebraska

Nevada

New Hampshire

New Jersey

New Mexico

New York

North Carolina

North Dakota

Ohio

Oklahoma

You can paddle in downtown Oklahoma City, thanks to work done restoring the Oklahoma River. Buy a day pass at the giant multi-sport complex Riversport OKC and you can kayak on the river, raft on a simulated white water course, surf a fake wave and ski a faux mountain, among other activities. It’s amazing what Riversport has brought to flat, landlocked Oklahoma.

Kayaking OKC!

Oregon

Oregon is where I live, so it’s where I’ve paddled the most. The Willamette is my home river, and is close enough to walk to from my house. Several outfitters rent kayaks and SUPs on the Willamette. I’ve taken guided tours with Portland Kayak Company from downtown Portland. Once I took their sunset tour, and once their full moon paddle.

Sunset kayaking on the Willamette River in downtown Portland

Both times we paddled around Ross Island, which is in the Willamette. That was my first time kayaking in the dark, and was kind of exciting. Sea monsters seem so much more real after sundown, and it wouldn’t be so hard for one to swim up the Willamette…

Down in Oregon City, eNRG Kayaking takes folks on a nice tour of Willamette Falls. Down there you can see some cool industrial relics, like the remains of the old Blue Heron Paper Mill. It was while I was on this tour that I realized sea lions have spread into the Willamette. Quite startling when one torpedoed right under my kayak. They may look comical barking on pilings, but those things are no joke in the water!

I love kayaking dogs. This one came along to Willamette Falls.

Next Adventure and Yoga to You used to partner for excellent SUP yoga classes in Sellwood Park. I loved going on weekend mornings. This year Yoga to You moved up to Scappoose, which I’m sure is lovely, but too far for me to be eager to drive.

Downward dog on a SUP!

Alder Creek Kayak, Canoe, Raft and SUP in Jantzen Beach, on the north end of Portland, gives a very useful intro to kayaking class where everyone takes turn falling out of their kayaks and then rescuing each other. We also played kayak tag and learned to kayak over logs. I also took a beginning SUP class with them at their Lake Oswego location.

My friend Heide, who rescued me when we practiced falling out of our kayaks.

Pennsylvania

Rhode Island

South Carolina

South Dakota

Tennessee

My first time in a kayak was on Tennessee’s beautiful Caney River on a foggy morning. Janis Martin, owner of Caney Fork Outdoors, accompanied me. A dam upstream controls water flow. It was pretty low that morning and I got stuck on some rocks. Janis was nice about helping launch me off them and back into the flow.

Caney River TN
On the Caney River in Tennessee.

Texas

Texas’ Hill Country features seven Highland lakes that stair step their way down to Lake Travis near Austin. They were built for flood control starting in the 1930s, but Texans soon recognized their recreational possibilities.

kayak ink lake state park
Checking out the Devil’s Waterhole

I joined a guided, ranger-led tour at Inks Lake State Park in Burnet, Texas. It’s much smaller than Lake Buchanan, the next lake over. Inks Lake is small and easy to navigate in a kayak. And my guide filled us in on geology, such as learning about valley spring gneiss, a type of rock named for the German word for sparkly. The low cost was another advantage of the guided tour. When I went in summer 2017, the tour only cost five dollars, including the kayak! Which was less expensive than renting one and paddling on my own.

Utah

Vermont

Virginia

I paddled a six-mile stretch of the James River with Twin River Outfitters in Buchanan [pronounced Buckanan], Virginia, about 20 miles north of Roanoke. The trip was mostly easy paddling, except for a few tiny rapids. The rapids looked like hardly anything. But this being my first time taking a kayak over any sort of rapids, they were plenty for me. I realized it’s awfully difficult to steer once the rapids have hold of you. I hit one rock hard and turned my kayak all the way around. Fortunately, the next rock I slammed pointed it back in the desired direction.

Green water, green trees

Other than the rapids, the mood was more peaceful than exhilarating. We had plenty of time to contemplate the green water and green banks, and think our private thoughts.

My friend Joe suavely paddles.

Most of Twin River Outfitters’ trips are self-guided, though you can hire a guide if your group wants one. They rent canoes, kayaks and tubes, and own three private campgrounds located a paddling day apart. So if you want to do a multiday paddle on the James River, this is a sweet setup. You can even choose between rustic and glamping options.

Washington

Just a little south of Seattle, in Des Moines, Washington, I was with a group who rented kayaks from Olympic Outdoor Center. From the name, I expected a giant operation. You know, Olympic-sized. It turned out to be a little beachside shack. Fortunately, they had plenty of kayaks, which is all that really counts.

Colorful kayaks at Redondo Beach, ready for kayaking Washington
Kayaks await us

We visited in mid-September, which is after the main season. It’s quite a short season in the rainy, misty Puget Sound. The Olympic Outdoor Center is only open daily in July and August. If you want a kayak in June or September, you have to call first. If it’s October to May? Better bring your own.

kayaking Washington in Puget Sound
Just a little blue showing through. A Pacific Northwest kind of day.

The beach at Des Moines is called Redondo Beach. It was a calm, quiet morning, a bit overcast in that way that’s so comforting to people who live in the Northwest. We always say we want the sun, but when the solar ball pops up we squint and cover our eyes.

Photo of me kayaking in Puget Sound
That’s me kayaking in Puget Sound. Photo by writer/photographer Heather Larson.
Thanks, Heather!

This was a nice little paddle along the shore looking at homes and scanning for wildlife. I saw cormorants, while others in my group had more impressive sightings of a porpoise, harbor seal and sea otter.

West Virginia

I’m a flatwater person. But every once in a while, I find myself on a raft, holding on for dear life. No, paddling like I’m supposed to be. It’s a team effort, after all. I rafted on the beautiful Upper New River with Adventures on the Gorge, opting for the family-friendly version of the half-day trip. The rapids were class 1 to 3, so there was lots of time to enjoy the scenery of New River Gorge, one of our newest national parks, instead of closing my eyes and praying I wouldn’t fall out.  It was a relaxing, easy ride on a drizzly day. But I stayed cozy in a wetsuit. People who like more exciting rafting trips can go on the Lower New River instead, with its class 4 rapids, or the hair-raising Gauley River.

New River Gorge Bridge
The river is down underneath all this fog. I didn’t dare bring my phone on the raft.

Wisconsin

I’m a born and bred west coast person, but I love Wisconsin. Perhaps it’s in my genes. My mom grew up in the Midwest and she still thinks Wisconsin is the most beautiful state.

I’ve had the opportunity to paddle two different lakes in Wisconsin so far. First, Elkhart Lake, which is a gorgeous place, one of the most delightful lakes I’ve ever experienced. I got to kayak, SUP and swim in it. Since many people swear it has healing waters, I had to make the most of my time there.

These sea kayaks felt a little tippy.

In the morning, I took a guided kayak tour with Douglas Dier, who owns Ecology Outfitters. He also leads the Wacky Paddlers Club (ages 51-92) on paddling adventures every Wednesday. Visitors are welcome to join his core group of locals, he said. In the afternoon, I rented a SUP from Victorian Village Resort. I found a peaceful cove with lots of lily pads where I reviewed my SUP yoga moves.

Some of the Victorian architecture around Elkhart Lake.

On another Wisconsin trip, this time to Door County, I kayaked in Lake Michigan. Gigantic! Lake Michigan feels like the ocean. I was glad to have a guide on this voyage, as the enormous lake intimidated me. Dillon Adams, guide for Door County Adventure Center, put my mind at ease. I mean, if you fall out of your kayak the guide has to save you, right?

Lake Michigan tandem kayak selfie

He took us into the more sheltered Mink River estuary, which 200 bird species pass through annually. We saw pelicans, egrets, a hawk, and the endangered Hine’s Emerald Dragonfly. The Mink River is the last remaining ancient river that flows across Door County.

Wyoming

Canada

Alberta

British Columbia

The 12-mile Indian Arm fjord is a popular place to paddle in Vancouver’s Deep Cove neighborhood. It’s super convenient to get to, even without a car. You can take the bus from downtown.

This place was so pretty. I want to go back.

I joined a small group for a kayak tour of Deep Cove and Indian Arm with Deep Cove Kayak Centre. This is a beautiful body of water. Even though it was sunny, there were still clouds and mist hanging over the tops of the rounded mountains for a shrouded, mysterious look.

We stopped to eat donuts.

We saw baby seals, moon jellyfish and purple starfish. Another group of kayakers that same day saw a mountain lion! Giving me a serious case of mountain lion envy. A kayaker from the other group showed me a photo she took with her phone of the cougar hanging out on a big rock, staring right back at her.

Baby seals!!!!!

Our guide James Hawes pointed out 1800 year-old petroglyphs of crabs. We also saw houses with the longest, most elaborate staircases down the steep banks of the fjord. One had a tower, and another had a helipad! And James brought locally famous Honey’s donuts for a snack break on a beach. An A+ tour.

Manitoba

New Brunswick

Newfoundland and Labrador

Nova Scotia

Some of the most fun I had in 2019 was taking a small-ship cruise of the Canadian Maritime Provinces with One Ocean Expeditions. The Resolute carries its own fleet of kayaks and SUPs. When the weather was agreeable, we tooled around the shoreline of Cape Breton Island.

Kayaking Inverness, Cape Breton Island, NS

We were lucky to have warm weather. But it’s a windy place with cold water and lots of lion’s mane jellyfish. So on my SUP journeys, I wore a dry suit. I felt dorky since the sun was out, but I hear those jellyfish pack a sting. And soon I was too busy trying to stay upright in the wind to worry about my outfit. The wind sent me racing along, snagging lobster buoys on my SUP’s fin. I was afraid some lobster fisherman was going to take off after me for messing up his buoys. Gorgeous blue sky, sparkly water day.  

Ontario

Prince Edward Island

Quebec

In the summer of 2016, I went on a water-themed trip to the Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean region of Quebec that included rafting, SUP, sea kayaking and canoeing. It was terrific!

Is a kayak skirt supposed to fill up with water? I think I did something wrong here.

I was nervous at first, since it was my first time on a SUP. Our group consisted of three serious adventure dudes and me. As they traded tales of backpacking through Mongolia, skiing uphill and not taking showers for weeks, I prayed I wouldn’t fall off the paddle board.

We rented SUPs from Cooperative O’Soleil, a paddle sports outfitter on the eastern side of Lac Saint Jean. I endured an initial five or ten minutes of hideous jelly legs. I kind of wanted to give up. But then my legs adapted and I started to get the hang of it. We moved from a protected channel onto the lake proper, which had a bit of wind and boat wake, but I managed to remain upright. It helped that they’d given the newbie an extra wide board.

The next day, we canoed the Ouasiemsca and Mistassini rivers with Aventuraid. I was super happy to share a canoe with the guide, Julien Gravelle, who was a total pro and knew the river. The rest of my group got three times as much exercise as I did, since they kept zigzagging, but Julien kept our canoe perfectly straight.

Another incredibly beautiful spot

Our last day in the Saguenay region, we drove a couple of hours east of Lac Saint Jean to the Parc National du Fjord-du-Saguenay. Here we sea kayaked with Organisaction! between 500 foot high granite cliffs. The water in the fjord is about 700 feet deep, so you know there are whales and sharks down there. I saw one seal poke its head up to check out our kayaks.

Sea kayaks in the fjord

Saskatchewan

Paddling in Other Countries

Ecuador

Look at this water! I took this from a SUP of some of my paddling friends at Floreana Island, Galapagos.

Japan

Kayaking Lake Shikaribetsu in Hokkaido! Photo by Teresa Bergen.

Maldives

View of palm trees and beach from SUP.
This was some of the most beautiful water ever!!! I took this photo at Siyam World, a resort in Noonu Atoll. I long to return.

Mexico

On a SUP by Danzante Island, Baja. Photo by Teresa Bergen.

Norway

Some of my most fabulous kayaking to date. This is the iceberg-filled Norwegian Arctic of Svalbard. I was on a cruise with Quark Expeditions. Photo by Teresa Bergen.

Peru

Piuray Lake, Peru. Photo by Teresa Bergen.

Qatar

People on paddleboards in front of tall buildings.
These are my guides from Blue Pearl Experience for a sunset paddle in Doha, Qatar. They’re all from the country of Georgia. What an international place!